Calçots and the Calçotada: Catalan Traditions Explained

When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and when in Barcelona, you eat calçots! If you’ve never heard of a calçot before, you’re not alone. This spring onion/leek-like vegetable is a Catalan favorite, and if they grew outside of the winter months, the Catalans would enjoy them with pleasure year round.

We’re here to explain to you a bit more about this deep-rooted Catalan tradition of the calçot and the calçotada, so you can dive deeper into the history and culture of this region of Spain during your stay.

What are Calçots?

As we mentioned earlier, calçots are a vegetable belonging to the onion family. Calçots in English would most closely be translated to “long green onion”, even though they are generally much longer and bigger than the traditional scallion green onions you’re probably familiar with.

The unique shape of the calçot onion is due to a farming style that originated in Valls, a small town near Tarragona, in the 19th century. Farmers plant the bulbs in parallel trenches with piles of soil on each side. This blocks the sunlight from reaching the vegetable, which causes the onion to elongate instead of growing a round bulb.

Legend has it that this same farmer put these spring onions on the stovetop, forgot he was cooking, and came back to discover his burnt meal. In an attempt to conserve what was left, he peeled back the char and found the flavor to be a delight. He went to share his discovery with the village, and thus the calçotada and the traditional calçots recipe was born.

Now, calçots season is marked on every calendar in Catalonia, lasting from November to April, although every local knows the ideal months for a calçotada are January, February, and March.

Everything you need to know before attending a traditional calçotada

A full Catalan calçotada goes beyond just the calçot onions themselves. Not only is there a traditional calçots recipe that must be followed when cooking them, but there’s also plenty of cultural foods and pairings that encompass the event. We’re here to break down the elements of this Catalan barbecue, so you can show up ready to indulge in calçots like a pro.

How to eat calçots

There’s a true technique that separates the professionals from the amateurs. To begin, ditch the cutlery. These green onions are typically eaten with your hands. The traditional calçots recipe calls for them to be left on the grill until they’re charred on the outside and have a bit of foam coming out from the top. When your calçots are ready, take them off the grill and wrap them in newspaper. They’ll need to rest for about half an hour so they can soften.

When you’re ready to eat, simply peel back the outer burnt layer, to reveal the soft and green inner layer. Dip the calçots in some fresh romesco sauce, and then raise them in the air and lower them into your mouth. The green tops are usually discarded as all the flavor is in the white lower part.

Calçot sauce

Although calçots are a delightful treat on their own, per tradition, they’re typically dipped in a special sauce called Salsa Romesco. This calçot sauce is made with almonds, red peppers, tomatoes, and some garlic, or Salsa Salvitxada which is quite similar but has a thicker consistency.

How to pair your calçot onion

A full Catalan calçotada wouldn’t be complete without some of their other scrumptious specialties. After starting out with some vermouth or beer to warm up your palette, followed by the calçots with wine, Catalans usually accompany their calçot onions with some local sausages, such as butifarra, or lamb chops. Polish off the meal with the region’s famed dish: crema catalana and don’t forget to wash it down with some of Catalonia’s velvety red wines served in a porrón.

Where to buy calçots for your own calçotada

During peak calçots season, these onions can be found almost everywhere. Most big chain grocery stores, like Mercadona, Ametller Origen, or Consum, will carry some calçots within Catalonia, but if you want some that are more fresh, we suggest checking out some local frutarías, or fruit and vegetable stands, or markets, like La Boqueria, Santa Caterina Market, or La Llibertat Market. The same goes for calçot sauce. Salsa romesco comes pre-prepared at supermarkets year round, but local food markets and stalls will sell freshly made sauce for your calçotada.

Once you have all your ingredients, you can either try cooking them at home, or you can even rent an outdoor barbecue spot to complete the true experience. Try reserving your spot at some public barbecue spots, such as Parque de Trinitat Vella, Font Les Planes, or Torrent de Can Coll.

Where to eat calçots in Barcelona

Our selection of calçot restaurants in the city

Even though most Catalan calçotadas take place in the countryside, there are still some places in Barcelona that serve calçots so you can satisfy your craving. Here’s some of our favorite calçots restaurants in Barcelona:

• L’Antic Forn, in Ciutat Vella

• Restaurante Carmen, in Sants-Montjuïc

• Can Cortada, in Horta-Guinardó

• La Foixarda, en Pueblo Español

• Can Travi Nou, en Horta-Guinardó

The calçots restaurants in Barcelona give a true traditional experience. Most places will have a full calçots menu, including some drinks, a meat course, and dessert, and others will let you choose to have just the calçots as well as sample other delectable dishes on their menu as you desire.

Public calçotadas in Barcelona

If you would rather eat outside with some locals, try checking out this year’s calçotada populares, which are public calçotadas in neighborhoods across Barcelona. The timing of each occasion changes depending on the year, but Sants, Montjuic, Gracia, Les Corts, and Horta are the main neighborhoods to research when searching for the specific dates of each event.

For each calçotada popular, the neighborhood hosting will close down a select street and publicly grill calçots and local meats for the public to enjoy at an affordable price. Drink, dine, and dance with the locals during the public outdoor celebration. Be sure to buy your tickets early because they will sell out!

Calçot restaurants outside the city

If you want to journey outside of Barcelona for traditional calçots made with the customary way over a fire pit, check out these restaurants just a short trip outside the city:

• Nou Can Martí in Sarrria-Sant Gervasi

• Can Ganxo in Tarragona

• Can Coll in Polinyà

• El Vinyet in Tarragona

• Ca n'Alzina in Sentmenat

Many of these restaurants are converted rural farmhouses that now function as restaurants to provide a traditional calçots event each year. Even though they may be less conveniently located if you’re staying in Barcelona, the experience is truly worth the trek.

Experience the tradition of calçots with Ukio

For those who can’t wait to taste their first calçot onion, be sure to secure your housing this winter with Ukio. We offer fully furnished monthly rentals throughout Barcelona, meaning you can comfortably live in the city for the entire duration of calçots season, giving you front row access to calçots and calçotadas.